FAQ for Professional Printing

Yes, we use only the highest grade materials. After all items are printed they receive a clear coat finish in either a gloss, flat, or matte finish. The clear coats used are the same that are used in the automotive industry and marine industries.

Yes, items that are printed can be re-printed without much difficulty.

A wide variety of flat or 3-D shapes and manufacturing materials such as plastics, metals, woods, glass, etc. can be printed. Everything from sunglasses, to home furniture to your custom motorcycle parts can be printed with ease.

Hydro-Dip™ makes every effort to have your products decorated and being sent back to you within 3-4 weeks after its arrival in our shop.

Due to the unique nature of custom work, estimates are given on a per item per job basis. The prep time, size and the complexity of the item or items being printed are the main focus for determining cost. Volume orders are also bid individually.

Yes and No. Some patterns allow for the base tone to be changed so that you can achieve a wide variety of colorful looks. While other patterns, such as branded camouflage patterns, require us to use a standardized base tone due to licensing regulations. Call for more information.

Yes, all parts to be printed need to be completely disassembled. All parts should be sent in a “Ready to Paint” condition. Please be sure to only bring in or send in cleaned items. Only send the pieces and parts that are going to be printed. Hydro-Dip™ cannot be responsible for the disassembly or re-assembly of your product.

FAQ for DIY Dip Kit

Basically any hard surface you can get the base coat to adhere to, you can dip.

The process is straight forward; if you can follow instructions, you can dip an object. 

Yes, depending on the configuration of the part, some can be more difficult than others.

Yes, as long as it is a good automotive base coat you can use it for processing. 

No, any water from a clean supply is adequate. 

It is very important that when you spray the activator over the film that you hold the can level. You must have even coverage on the film.

Perhaps you used too much activator. 

The part was processed (dipped) too flat into the film and trapped air. 

The water reached the area to be printing before the film. The film will not adhere to a wet or damp surface.

You let the part stand out too long before rinsing it off. After printing, place the part under running water. If you just set the part to the side it will continue its adhesion process.

Yes, spray some activator into a small container. Use a small brush, dip into the activator then rub the brush onto a piece of the film. You can dilute some of the ink from the carrier and dap it onto the area you wish to touch up. After this procedure, rinse the part under running water.

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