Water Transfer Printing, Hydrographic Films, Dipping Tanks, Cerakote, and Supplies

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Frequently Asked Questions

Got questions?
We've got answers.

Everything you need to know about our professional dipping service and DIY kits. Can't find what you're looking for? Just call us.

Contact us → Call 541-523-6700
Professional Dipping Service

Questions about our
dipping service

Sending us your gear? Here's what you need to know before you ship.

Is the finish durable?
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Yes, we use only the highest grade materials. After all items are printed they receive a clear coat finish in either a gloss, flat, or matte finish. The clear coats used are the same that are used in the automotive industry and marine industries.
Can items be reprinted?
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Yes, items that are printed can be re-printed without much difficulty.
What types of items can be printed?
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A wide variety of flat or 3-D shapes and manufacturing materials such as plastics, metals, woods, glass, etc. can be printed. Everything from sunglasses, to home furniture to your custom motorcycle parts can be printed with ease.
What is the turnaround time on my product?
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Hydro-Dip makes every effort to have your products decorated and sent back to you within 2–3 weeks after arrival in our shop. Turnaround time can vary depending on current volume and complexity of your project.
How much does it cost?
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Due to the unique nature of custom work, estimates are given on a per item per job basis. The prep time, size and the complexity of the item or items being printed are the main factors in determining cost. Volume orders are also bid individually. Contact us for a free quote.
Can we change the color of a pattern?
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Yes and No. Some patterns allow for the base tone to be changed so that you can achieve a wide variety of colorful looks. However, other patterns — such as branded camouflage patterns — require us to use a standardized base tone due to licensing regulations. Call us for more information on your specific pattern.
Do we need to send our parts disassembled?
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Yes, all parts to be printed need to be completely disassembled. All parts should be sent in a "Ready to Paint" condition. Please be sure to only send in cleaned items — only send the pieces and parts that are going to be printed. Hydro-Dip cannot be responsible for the disassembly or re-assembly of your product.
DIY Dip Kits

Questions about
dipping it yourself

New to hydrographics? These are the most common questions we get from DIY customers.

What can I dip?
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Basically any hard surface you can get the base coat to adhere to, you can dip. Plastics, metals, woods, glass and more all work well with proper preparation.
Is it hard to dip an object?
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The process is straightforward — if you can follow instructions, you can dip an object. Our kits include detailed instructions and everything you need to get started.
Are some parts harder to dip than others?
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Yes, depending on the configuration of the part, some can be more difficult than others. Complex 3D shapes with deep recesses or intricate geometry require more care and technique than flat or simple surfaces.
Can I use my own base coat colors?
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Yes, as long as it is a good automotive base coat you can use it for processing. Keep in mind that the base coat color will show through the film and affect the final appearance of the pattern.
Do I have to use special water?
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No, any water from a clean supply is adequate. Water temperature does matter — warmer water generally produces better results. Aim for water between 80–90°F for best film activation.
Some parts of the film melt and some do not.
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It is very important that when you spray the activator over the film that you hold the can level. You must have even coverage on the film. Uneven activator application is the most common cause of partial film activation.
The print looked great, then smeared off.
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Perhaps you used too much activator. Over-activating the film causes it to become too liquid and lose adhesion. Use short, even passes and allow the activator to flash slightly before dipping.
The print looked great but had air bubbles.
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Not enough activator. Under-activated film doesn't fully liquefy, trapping air between the film and the surface. Make sure the entire film surface has an even, wet sheen before dipping.
After printing I had little holes.
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The part was processed (dipped) too flat into the film and trapped air. Dip at an angle rather than straight down — enter one edge first and roll the part through the film to push air out rather than trap it.
After printing I had voids.
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The water reached the area to be printed before the film. The film will not adhere to a wet or damp surface. Make sure the surface is completely dry before dipping and that you're entering the water cleanly through the activated film.
The part printed great then started to eat into the base coat.
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You let the part stand out too long before rinsing it off. After printing, place the part immediately under running water. If you just set the part to the side it will continue its adhesion process and the activator will begin to attack the base coat.
Can I touch up a small imperfection?
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Yes — spray some activator into a small container. Use a small brush, dip into the activator then rub the brush onto a piece of the film. You can dilute some of the ink from the carrier and dab it onto the area you wish to touch up. After this procedure, rinse the part under running water.

Still have questions?
Just ask us.

We've been doing this for over 20 years. Whatever your question, we've probably heard it before — and we're happy to help.

Get in touch → Call 541-523-6700